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How to Hem Woven Fabric

Which more interesting part do you expect to enjoy as a sewer other than this? Hemming your fabric is usually among the last steps to carry out when sewing. You can carry this out using several ways. You can also create different types of hems on your fabric, depending on how you make it. Either way, the process should be fun, and of course, highly dependent on your skills.

Do you have to knit? Maybe this is lingering in your mind. And the best answer to this is, it depends on what you want. If you like your garment with the fraying, then you need not do it. However, the truth is that most garments need this procedure for them to last long. Hemming ensures that your construction stitch remains strong. It will ensure that your attire does not unravel. Also, the final look of your garment will be neat. Now that you know that this step is crucial, how do you go about it? This article will guide you through this.

How to Hem Woven Fabric?

You can use different types of hems here. But the most common one here is the top stitch hem. But no matter what stitch you use, the goal and maybe the procedure is the same. So first, make a fold on the edge that you will be hemming. Secure it with your hand and iron it. You can even use pins to secure it. Adjust the settings of your sewing machine to the stitch you want to employ. Ensure you also make your needle longer. Sew all through the garment. You can even do this by hand.

How to Hem a Woven Fabric Using a Twin Needle?

Everyone wants their dress or shirt to be ready to wear before they head out. Things such as unfinished edges and even uneven ones will frustrate you. So, what do you do if you don’t have a cover stitch machine or a serger?

A twin needle will get you covered in coming up with stretchy and neat hems. It usually is fork like but with two edges that will allow you to double stitch your edges. Well, this means that you will be able to create two rows of stitches at once. There are various kinds of twin needles, and the type varies depending on the width. Below is a procedure for creating hems using a twin needle.

Step 1: Thread the Twin Needle

Threading a twin needle may not be as straightforward as when using the regular sewing needle. You need to look through the instruction manual that came with your machine to guide you. Note how your thread varies depending on the device. Ensure you do it right to ensure that your hem comes out neat and elastic.

Most guides will instruct you first to thread the machine, like how you do it usually. Then, place the second roll of thread to the next spool pin. If your device lacks this, then use the bobbin pin. Catch the second thread through the eye of the other needle.

Ensure that only one of your threads passes through the thread guide to avoid the threads’ tangling.

Step 2: Prep the Fabric

After setting up your twin needle, you get a clear picture of what is to go where. So, the next thing you need to do is prepare your woven fabric for hemming. Start by pressing it to ensure that it is intact before sewing. For pressing, you can use a fusible webbing or a pin.

Step 3: Align Your Fabric

Since you will be using a twin needle, you need to sew the upper part of your fabric. You are hemming your material, so you need the needle thread and the bobbin to cover this part. So, ensure you equalize the seam allowance measurement with that of the hem.

Step 4: Set Your Machine to the Stitch You Will Be Using

A stretch stitch works perfectly in hemming, and most machines have this setting. If yours doesn’t have this one, you can also use the zigzag stitch. When setting the zigzag stitch, move the hand towards you. Ensure that the needle doesn’t hit the presser foot. You can even go for a straight stitch or both.

Step 5: Start Sewing the Hem

Ensure your hem is right below the presser foot. When sewing, the needle on the left should catch the edge of the hem. That on the right will automatically drop at the hem. If these positionings are perfect, be sure to get a neat raw edge. The final look of your fabric will depend on the stitch you use. That’s it!

Types of Hems You Can Make on Your Woven Fabric

There are several types of hem you can employ on your woven fabric. The hem you use depends on the material you have and the hem shape you want to get. Here are the various kinds you can use.

1. Blind Hem

This hem is usually invisible when looking from the right side of the fabric. To achieve this hem, incorporate the blind hem stitch on your sewing machine.

2. Narrow Hem

A narrow hem will work well in fabrics with less weight, such as blouses. Also, if there are curves on the edges of your material, you can use it. Here, you need to first fold the raw edge at about 1/8 to 1/4 inches. Press the hem again using the same measurements and start stitching close to the edge of the stitch.

3. Double Fold Hem

Most people prefer this kind of hemming. Carrying it out is pretty straightforward. It will give you an outstanding and neat finish on your fabric. The hem works well if your hem is straight. When carrying it out, start by folding 1/4 inch of the raw edge. Fold the hem again using the seam allowance. Then do the stitching.

4. Bias Tape Hem

If your fabric is chunky, this hem will work well on it. After the process, you will see single line stitches on the right side of the material. The most common bias tape you can use is the 1/2 inch. To use a bias tape, pin one side of it to the right side of your fabric. At around 1/4 inch from the raw edge, stitch the tape’s crease. Fold the wrong side of the garment and stitch.

5. Zigzag Hem

This hem works well for thick fabrics and those with curves on their edges. To use this hem, overlock the raw edge and fold it up. Then, Stitch over the edge of the fabric.

How to Hem a Woven Fabric Using a Basic Sewing Machine

Step 1: Adjust the stitch length of your sewing machine to a long-on.

Step 2: Following the hem allowance, stitch all around the garment. Make sure you allow a 1.5 inch from the edge.

Step 3: Adjust the stitch length back to normality.

Step 4: Following the stitch line, fold the hem. It would help if you folded it to the wrong side.

Step 5: Fold your fabric to suit the hem you want to use. Then the hem will depend on your material. Stitch the hem, ensuring that it goes all through the fold.

Step 6: You can now remove your thread and press the hem. It is now ready to wear!

Does the Fold You Make Affect How Your Fabric Will Look?

Yes! Folding the edge of your fabric is a crucial step when you want to sew. Most people will prefer to go with a double-fold hem, especially for light clothes. It will be easy to sew your fabric at this stage, and the final look will be neat. The fold needs to be accurate and even. Otherwise, the ultimate glimpse of your garment won’t be pleasing.

Which Is the Best Type of Hem to Use?

There may be no particular best hem that one can use. However, you can achieve the best, depending on your fabric. Also, the pattern you want to come up with will vary from hem to hem. For example, your blouse will look neat if you use a double fold hem. If you are stitching a skirt, then a blind seam will be best.


Hello, I am Jessica Flores, and you are welcome to my website. I am a professional fashion designer and a seamstress. I always carried a passion for craftwork. My love for craft grew along with time. I have spent years researching and practicing in this field to gather colossal experience.

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