How to Hem a Concave Curve

Whether you are just commencing your sewing journey or being a pro, you need to develop great-looking curves. A beginner may find it hard to create a neat hem on a concave curve.

However, with a little practice, you will ache in the game. How you hem a concave curve will depend on many things, such as the fabric you are dealing with.

Though such matters, you need to ensure that you create a beautiful finish. It will give a professional feeling to the garment.

Sewing a concave is among the last things you do before your dress is ready for wearing. You don’t want to ruin it since fixing it can be quite challenging.

Therefore, you should select a sewing technique that you are well versant with. The materials you need for any technique may all be the same.

They include a good sewing thread and needle. A sewing machine or a serger is also essential, and you also have to ensure that if you are using your hands, you have top-notch skills to create something neat.

Let’s now learn how you will go about hemming a concave curve.

How to Hem a Concave Curve?

A concave curve usually turns towards the inside. One application of such is when binding the edges of a sleeveless top. It will help if you start by turning a hem. Let the wrong side face you.

Make a single turn under the hem. You can use an overlocker or zigzag stitch for this—finish hemming with a bias tape.

Hem a Concave Curve By Using a Double Fold Hem

For a concave curve, you should use bias tape. It will help bring out a more professional appearance to your material. You can either buy a bias tape or make yours.

To make one, you need to make a double-turn hem which can be relatively challenging. For this reason, best ensure you are keen enough to achieve better results.

Once you perform this, you can now begin making the edge. Below is the procedure.

Step 1: Make a Double Fold Under the Hem

You can easily execute this if you have an overlocker. If you lack one, you can hold the raw edge including a zigzag stitch.

Step 2: Start Sewing

Start making stitches on the fabric. The first stitch should be about 1/4 inches from the raw edge.

Step 3: Iron Press the Fabric

Once you make the stitches, turn the fabric to the wrong side. Then, pass a hot iron along the stitch line. Turn the fabric again towards the wrong side and press it using a finger.

Step 4: Sew the Hem

After pressing on the wrong side, secure the hem in place by sewing it. Be sure to rub-down the fabric as you sew. If you are dealing with a piece of stiff or tight fabric, ensure you exert more pressure on the fold.

You may need to pull the fabric less than 1/4 inches so that the concave curve can form correctly. Both the right and the opposite side of the double fold hem should be neat.

Hem a Concave Curve By Using a Single Turn Under Hem

Step 1: Stitch the Raw Edges

You can use a zigzag stitch to sew the raw edges of the fabric. If you have an overlocker ( serger), It will do a good job. Sewing the raw edges will stop the fraying.

Step 2: Press on the Fabric

Turn the fabric under at 3/8 inches. Press the tip to have it in place. It would help if you then made a top stitch for it to stay intact.

Step 3: Iron the Fabric

Remove the fabric from the machine and flat iron it. So, this ensures that the curve is neat and remains in place.

Hem a Concave Curve By Using a Bias Tape

Step 1: Place the Bias Tape on the Curve

You may opt to place the tape entirely on the inside of the garment. This method ensures that it is not showing on the border of the garment. You also have the alternative of folding the tape into halves.

This way, the one half you make will lie on the garment’s inner part, and the other half will be on the outside.

Step 2: Pin the Bias Tape

You need to ensure that the bias tape’s right sides are together. Secure the right side of the tape to the right side of the garment. It should sit adjacent to the first fold line.

Also, ensure that its edges match the raw edges of your material. Use pins for it to remain intact.

Step 3: Start Sewing

Once you ensure that the edges of the bias tape and those of the garment are in line, start sewing the curve. It can help if you begin with the first fold line to connect the bias tape with the garment edge.

Step 4: Press on the First Stitch

Here, turn your material to the other side. Press on iron on the bias tape. Now, this ensures that the curve is neater and intact.

Step 5: Finish Sewing on the Bias Tape

Here it would be best if you looked at what you want the final curve to look like. If you want the edge not to feature the bias tape, fold it to the inside of the fabric.

Then pin it in place. Finally, make stitches on it so that it is more secure. If you want the edge to feature it, fold the bias tape along the fabric edge to the outside.

Besides, ensure that it passes the fold line. Press it with your hands for it to remain intact. You can also use tiny pins to secure it in place. Then make the final stitches an inch or a half away from the edge.

Tips for Hemming a Neat Concave Curve

1. Ensure You Trace Where You Want the Curve to Pass

If you want to achieve a beautiful concave curve, you need first to draw it. Ensure what you come up with is a proper concave curve and trace it along your garment.

2. Be Careful When Sewing

Once you have the trace of the concave curve, you need to focus on one stitch at a time while sewing. Focusing on all the stitches at a time may lead you to have uneven seams.

3. Use a Short Stitch Length

To make a neat concave curve, ensure you incorporate a short stitch length. If your fabric is tight, a short stitch length will ensure the fabric moves slowly for a better look under the presser foot.

4. Use Shorter Seam Allowances

A shorter seam allowance will give a neater look on your fabric. Therefore work with a shorter edge.

5. Use a Thread That Matches the Fabric

A thread matching the color of your garment will give you a more professional and neat finish. It is especially the case where the bias tape is of a different color from the fabric. It makes it easier to trace your stitches.

Which Method Will Give Me a Better Finish for My Concave Curve?

A bias tape gives you a better finish than when using a double or a single fold. You only need to ensure that you get the correct shape and size to fit the concave edge.

The good thing is that you can get buy a bias tape. So, the task of securing it in place on the edge of your garment.

Which Method Is Much More Comfortable?

Using a bias tape may give you a neat finishing, but the work to achieve this is a lot. A bias tape is also an expensive method. You can use a single-turn hem instead, especially if you are a beginner.

You only need to make one fold on the concave edge of your garment. Then place it on the machine and sew to secure it. There you have a proper finished concave hem.



I'm Jessica Flores, a professional fashion designer and an expert seamstress. Crafting has always been a deep-seated passion of mine, one that has flourished and evolved over the years. I've dedicated considerable time to both studying and practicing in the realm of fashion and sewing, amassing a wealth of experience and skills. It brings me great joy to share these insights and experiences with you all, hoping to inspire and foster a similar passion for the art of sewing.

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