How to Sew a Hidden Seam with a Sewing Machine

Perfection is the key to the success of any sewing project. When you are sewing garments or home décor accessories like curtains, the seam should be fully closed to provide a finished look. A hidden stitch is used when you want to close the seam without the stitch being visible.

How to Sew a Hidden Seam with a Sewing Machine

Sew Hidden Seam with Sewing Machine

Hand sewing a seam is the best way to keep it hidden. But if you are using a sewing machine, then the blind hem stitchcan be used to sew a hidden seam. This stitch can be done using a blind hem foot attached to the sewing machine. Apart from sewing a hidden seam, the sewer can also attach pockets, and trimmings on garments using the blind hem stitch.

Let us have a look at how to sew a hidden seam using a blind hem stitch

Steps to Sew a Blind Hem Stitch Using a Sewing Machine

Here are the steps to follow to sew a blind hem stitch using a sewing machine

Step 1: Fold the fabric

Fold the fabric

The first step is to fold the fabric to the desired length. This is the hem allowance. Now fold the top edge of the hem allowance inwards so that the frayed edge is not visible. This is basically folding the fabric twice. Once folded, you should have three layers of fabric.

If you want to shorten the length of a skirt, then you should wear it and measure the exact measurement before folding it. The fabric should be folded to the wrong side.

Once folded, iron the fabric so that the fold stays in place. You can even pin it up so that the fold stays intact.

Step 2: Preparing the Sewing Machine

Lovely seamstress at the table

Now fix the blind hem foot on the machine. The foot comes with a guide in the center and three grooves underneath. When you sew, the fold of the fabric should come against the guide, and the groove prevents unnecessary slips while sewing.

Set the machine to the blind hem stitch and select the stitch length. The stitch length and width depends on the type of fabric and purpose for which you are sewing. If you are sewing a home décor product like a curtain, then you should put the stitch length and width at the longest and widest setting. This ensures that all layers of fabric are covered.

Now slide the fabric with the wrong side facing up. The edge guide should be fixed right up against the fold. Put the needle, drop the presser foot, and start sewing. When you sew, the needle should just pierce the fabric, and the fold should be right against the guide. This ensures a proper stitch. Once you reach a pin, remove that and continue sewing until you have sewn the entire edge.

If the stitch is done correctly, you will notice few zig-zag stitches followed by a “V” stitch. This stitch grabs the fold of the fabric. When you turn the fabric to the right side, you will be able to see very small stitches. If you use a thread of the same color as the fabric, then you will not be able to see any stitch at all thus creating the blind effect.

How Does A Blind Hem Stitch Look Like

The main purpose of the blind hem stitch is to remain hidden. When you do a blind hem stitch, most of the stitches go inside the folded part of the fabric. Only the tip of the “V” stitch goes through the hem folding and becomes visible on the right side of the fabric. Thus, if you use a thread of the same color as the fabric, then no stitch will be visible.

How Do You Sew Perfectly Straight Seams

Sew Perfectly Straight Seams

One of the biggest problems that sewers face is sewing a not-so-straight seam. If the seam is not straight, then the fabric will pucker and becomes wobbly. To prevent this, a seam guide can be used. Most of the machines will have abuilt-in seam guidefound in the machine bed. This will be marked with a seam allowance in inches or millimeters. If you place your fabric edge along this guide, you will be able to sew the seam straight.

In case the machine does not have a built-in seam guide, then you can purchase it separately. You can set the same measurement as the seam allowance on the seam guide and do the stitching. This provides a nice edge to follow while sewing a straight seam.

What Are The Different Types Of Seams

  • Plain seam: This is thesimplest form of seam, which is used to join two pieces of fabric.
  • Double-stitched seam: When two lines of the plain seam are stitched, it forms the double-stitched seam. This type of seam is also used for decorative purposes.
  • Hairline seam: This seam is used for stitching collars or other enclosed areas. In this type of seam, the seam allowance is not visible from outside.
  • Corded or piped seam: This is another decorative seam that is used for collars. In this type of seam, a fabric cording is inserted in between the seam line for a decorative look.
  • French seam: AFrench seam is used in light fabric like chiffon and georgette. In this seam, the raw edges are enclosed in a fold. But it does not add much bulk to the edges because of the light nature of the fabric.
  • Flat-felled seam: The seam used in heavy fabric like jeans is flat-felled seam as it keeps the seam flat.
  • Mock flat fell seam: This seam is almost similar to the flat felled seam. But this seam will have exposed raw edge on the wrong side of the fabric. This stitch can be used only for fabric whose edge does not fray.
  • Lapped seam: For fabric like leather and fleece that does not fray easily, a lapped seam or tucked seam is used.
  • Faced seam: This type of seam is used for armholes and waistlines.

Related Questions

What is the difference between stitches and seams?

A stitch is a loop of thread pulled through the fabric. The thread can be pulled either through a single fabric or multiple layers of fabric. When a sequence of stitches holds two layers of fabric together, it forms a stitching line.

A seam, on the other hand, is used to provide a finishing touch to the edge of a fabric. Two or more layers of fabric or two fabric itself are joined together using a seam. There are different types of seams, depending on the type of fabric and its texture.

How do you sew fabric together seamlessly?

sew fabric together seamlessly

There are several problems that you face when you sew fabric together. Sometimes the seam breaks open, or the machine fails to drag the fabric well. Here are some tips for sewing fabric seamlessly

  • It is best to sew the fabric of the same texture and thickness together for a seamless finish. If, by any chance, you need to sew the fabric of different texture, then you should test it before sewing on the final project.
  • You should pin the fabric properly before sewing. This helps the material to stay together and avoid unnecessary mistakes while sewing.
  • You should ensure that the fabric is wrinkle-free before stitching. Though you can correct the wrinkles at a later stage, it may not give a perfect finish. For fabric that wrinkles up fast like cotton, you can iron the fabric before sewing.
  • Select the right stitch type, length, and sewing speed while stitching. This ensures that you get a seamless finish.


I'm Jessica Flores, a professional fashion designer and an expert seamstress. Crafting has always been a deep-seated passion of mine, one that has flourished and evolved over the years. I've dedicated considerable time to both studying and practicing in the realm of fashion and sewing, amassing a wealth of experience and skills. It brings me great joy to share these insights and experiences with you all, hoping to inspire and foster a similar passion for the art of sewing.

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