How To Sew Silk Without Puckering

The humble roots of silk as a fabric dates back to some centuries ago. And ever since time immemorial, it has been a sensuous and luxurious fabric! Want to learn the best method to silk without puckering? Read on!

Originating from the silkworms’ cocoons, silk happens to be the strongest natural fabric material! However, there’s no denying that its slippery texture makes it more difficult when it comes down to sewing.

So, the best way to sew silk without puckering is by following some easy techniques both while hand-sewing and machine sewing. If you’re here to understand the simple procedures, read on this tutorial guide!

How To Sew Silk Without Puckering?

In this tutorial guide, here’s an elucidating explanation on simple ways of sewing silk without puckering for both machine-sewing and hand-sewing! But unless you gather these must-have essentials, how do you think you can proceed?

Essential Tools:

  • Silk Needles
  • Rotary Cutter
  • Polyester or Cotton Threads
  • Silk Fabric
  • Sewing Machine (for Method 2)
  • Pattern weights
  • Ironing board and iron

So, the first step to every sewing process is to gather the required tools. In this case, here are the important sewing materials you require for sewing silk without puckering.

Method 1: Sew Silk Without Puckering Without a Sewing Machine

In case you’re not ready to try your hands on machine sewing, you can perform this easy method. Let’s get started!

Step 1: Washing The Silk

In general, pre-washing the fabric is crucial for a whole lot of reasons. It not only cleans your fabric but also gives a chance of minor shrinking before sewing. Thus, it prevents staining the silk with watermarks concerning the steaming procedure.

However, it’s best to dry clean the material as your washing machine would damage the shines! Alternatively, you can even soak it in hot water.

Step 2: Measuring The Cut

So, the next step is to cut the fabric. And incidentally, it’s the most dreaded part of your entire job! Getting the right cut is a challenging job!

Thus, it’s imperative to be careful about your inches! Also, to ensure that it’s gorgeous and perfect, measure on a flat surface!

Step 3: Stabilizing Your Fabric

A flawless cut can only result from the use of a gentle fabric stabilizer. And for stabilizing your fabric, a light spritz of starch spray is always recommended. Also, this will fix the process of laying silk with less movement!

However, some people may get worried about these stabilizers leaving pesky marks on their beautiful fabric! In case it’s a light color, you can choose an alternative option. That said, what you can do is sandwich the silk in between the two sheets of paper or another fabric while cutting!

Step 4: Cutting Off The Stragglers

Do you know what that one thing that causes frayed edges is? Simply put, it’s the stragglers! So, the first thing here is to cut them off! Only then can you proceed further!

Also, remember not to leave them as it is. Whenever you see it in your fabric, immediately trim the portion of the fabric.

Step 5: Hand-Sewing Your Fabric

As a matter of fact, the most important thing to do here is to avoid laying out all the pattern pieces. Instead, it’s better to work in manageable chunks with convenience.

For newbies in the world of sewing, it’s always a great idea to avoid using a sewing machine. Due to this, one should use silk needles for hand-sewing. Their superb sharpness and additional length make them better for delicate fabrics.

Here, all you need to do is to take a small cut-off portion of the silk. Then, run it through the sewing machine and see whether or not the current setup is suitable concerning your needle and stitch length. So, if you’re hand-sewing, it’s better to test the silk.

Step 6: Hand-Basting The Silk Fabric

It goes without saying that silk is prone to fraying. This, puckering would occur whenever you choose silk as a fabric material. However, the best way to avoid it in your hand-sewing method depends on the needle choice.

As discussed already, it’s a safe idea to choose a sharp silk needle instead of a universal needle. Also, one should note that hand-basting can reduce the chances of puckering!

In fact, hand-basting is an initial step to make the process simpler. Although it might be time-consuming, there’s no wonder the benefits of it.

Step 7: French Seaming by Hand

Adopting a French seam will eliminate the risks of frayed edges. In addition, it also reduces the chances of lowering the longevity of the seams. And to accomplish the task by hand, start with the two pieces of fabric.

Firstly, set them one atop the other. Also, remember that you are placing it on the wrong side. Now, sew around 1/8 inch from its right edge. After this, unfold it. Then, you need to lay it on a flat surface. Now, finger-press the seam flat on its wrong side.

Upon doing so, you need to fold your fabric so that you’re facing the right sides. Here, ensure that seam is at the fabric’s edge. Again, sew down the seam by using the seam allowance of ? inch.

One Quick Note: It would be better if you could use cotton threads for the purpose. Using silk threads for seams would just be a mistake as they are not as strong as cotton threads.

Step 8: Pressing The Fabric

As you’ve learned a beautiful design, you can proceed with your sewing skills. In this last step, all you need to do is to press your fabric with an iron and ironing board. So, press the fabric, and then, you’re ready to go!

Method 1: Sew Silk Without Puckering With a Sewing Machine

So, your first step to sewing silk without puckering with a machine is to wash your fabric. If you’re using different colors, ensure that you wash them separately. Now, rinse the fabric in white vinegar and then in water.

And avoid wringing the fabric. After this, dry it accordingly and follow the steps mentioned below:

Step 1: Choosing a Needle

Now that you know what tools to gather, it’s time to choose the right needle. As discussed already, perhaps, a sharp needle can perform the job well. For the choice of thread, choose a polyester or cotton thread.

Step 2: Sewing Machine Requirements

For the next step, it is imperative to opt for flat-bottomed food for the machine. The foot will press down your fabric while the needle movement happens to and fro.

Now, it’s the right time to clean and dust the sewing machine. For this reason, you need to work with a dust-free and tidy machine. In case you see any residue in the machine, wipe it off then and there.

Alternatively, you can even use a pressurized air canister in order to blow the air into the machine’s air crevices and crevices.

Step 3: Cutting The Silk Fabric

And to proceed carefully, all you need is to wash your hands before touching the silk. Underneath your silk fabric, you need to layer tissue paper or muslin. As soon as you do so, now’s the right time to spray on the fabric stabilizer!

One Quick Note:

It’s better to be more precautious about the process. For this reason, using silk pins and pattern weights make sense. As a matter of fact, silk pins are fine pins leaving tiny holes in the fabric.

On the contrary, pattern weights are holders used for holding the fabric stationary on cutting surfaces. So, it reduces the chances of shifting here and there while cutting.

Step 4: Preparing for Sewing

After you cut the fabric pieces one at a single time, it’s time to prepare for the sewing process. So, here you need to use the silk pin first! Upon then, place the pins in seam allowances of ? inch!

Then, you have to press the seam with low iron heat & a pressing cloth. As soon as you perform this step, it’s time to cut away the fraying edges! But before you sew the fabric, make sure that you hand-baste the pieces.

For this reason, you can place the piece of tissue under the silk. Here, use a fabric stabilizer and spray! After which, test the sewing on a scrap!

Now, pull back the top thread & bobbin thread. Here, you need to use a manual process of bringing your needle down into your fabric. Always maintain a straight position while holding the fabric!

As you sew some stitches, immediately choose backstitching! Use a steady-slow pace for a better result. Always be extra careful when you see ripping out seams! Lastly, finish the seam carefully!

How Should You Sew Ripped Silk?

The best way is to put one fusible fabric on the rip’s wrong side. After this, you need to gently iron it. Also, ensure that you close the tear tightly. Next, sew the rip with the silk thread on the edges. Again, don’t forget to make the right use of fingernail scissors for cutting loose edges of the tear!



I'm Jessica Flores, a professional fashion designer and an expert seamstress. Crafting has always been a deep-seated passion of mine, one that has flourished and evolved over the years. I've dedicated considerable time to both studying and practicing in the realm of fashion and sewing, amassing a wealth of experience and skills. It brings me great joy to share these insights and experiences with you all, hoping to inspire and foster a similar passion for the art of sewing.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *