The best way to measure the hem of a fabric or a material is by leveling it each time you make a garment out of the material. Measuring the hem is highly essential as it will allow you to make the alterations within a raiment ideally.
Also, you must start measuring the hem before you begin the hemming work. For instance, if you are hemming a pair of pants, you need to match its length.
On the other hand, when you are hemming a skirt or a dress, it should hang evenly. So, once you have created an attire, you must immediately measure the hem without fail.
How Do You Measure A Hem?
When it comes to measuring the hem of a garment or fabric, there are simple and easy steps, which you need to follow. Want to know what these steps are? Check the information below!
You need to measure the length that you want for the attire. With the help of sewing or measuring tape, you have to measure from the waistline and down.
Through this measurement, you will receive a general ideal right before you begin or start your work on any sewing project.
Your sewing project should match perfectly with the needs of the individual you are doing the project for. The individual will put on the garment and should match with the shoes the person will wear.
When the shoes are correct, it will help the garment be within the right length and hang well.
You must select the desired length. After that, you need to fold that cloth underneath and pin it up.
Repeat the folding and pinning work around the edge of the entire fabric or garment.
With a yardstick or a ruler, check out the length of the hem and measure it right from the floor towards the area where you pinned the cloth.
When you are hemming pants, you need to replicate the technique on the same leg as well.
You have to remove the clothing and iron or press the hem area properly. Once the work is done, you can either try on the garment or tell someone else to wear the clothing and measure the hem again.
You need to measure it with a ruler or a yardstick.
You need to remove the excess fabric, and for that, you can use the pins you added as a guideline. It will help you cut around the hem properly without any issues.
When you have measured the hem, you are all set to proceed towards the hemming work.
Why Hems Droop?
When you try to level the hem, it might become uneven at times, leading to errors or mistakes occurring when doing sewing work. But there are two main reasons why you get an uneven hem. Look below!
The hem will fall on various grainlines when you try to make a skirt from a rectangle. The center area has been cut on the lengthwise grain, but the side seam falls on the bias or the diagonal grain.
You are well aware of the fact that the material will stretch along the diagonal grain. When you hang the skirt, the seam will stretch and keep getting longer.
When it comes to full skirts, they will manifest such problems more when compared with straight skirts. Why? It’s because the angle of the diagonal grain is a bit severe.
The curves of your body is another reason for which you will encounter uneven hem. The material needs to form around the curves of your body right before it reaches the hem.
For instance, when an individual wears the garment, and their lower body portion is slightly more significant, they will need a lot more material to cover up that curve.
Otherwise, it will wind up with a hem that goes upwards at the backside.
How To Hem The Pants At The Correct Length?
On certain occasions, even when you find the best pair of pants, you will discover that they are too long for you. But you can easily fix such issues when you hem your pants properly.
Here are some of the steps you must follow to get the correct length of your pants.
Step 1: Get Rid Of The Actual Hem
Remove the actual hem, which presents within the pant. Also, do keep in mind the amount of hem used by the manufacturers provided within the pant.
You also need to make a note of how exactly the actual hem was constructed. Use a press or an iron to take out the hem from the pant.
Step 2: Put On Your Shoes
Keep one thing in mind, all the shoes or footwear are not the same. Heels can easily change the space available on the foot’s front. Doing so will enable the hem to hang freely.
If you wear flat shoes, it will follow the standard foot for the availability of the hemline. On the other hand, the sneaker’s padding will have a massive impact on how the hem will hang at the foot’s front.
Step 3: The Posture
You have to stand straight. The posture of your body will affect the garment’s length. It’s highly essential to stand in a correct posture.
If you try to bend in any direction, you will not obtain a straight hem for your pants.
Step 4: Working From The Foot’s Side
When you work from the back and front of the footwear, the sides of the shoes will not be visible. So, you will not be able to put the hem where your instincts tell you.
Step 5: Try To Measure From The Floor
Place the end of the ruler on the floor. Put a straight pin to the floor horizontally at your desired mark on the ruler.
Move the rule and put as many pins as you want. But make sure you don’t twist the legs of the pants when you are putting the pins.
You have to replicate the same process for the other side of the shoe.
Step 6: Complete The Pinning Work
Take the pants off. Set the pins on all the areas positioned at the top spot of the foot.
Step 7: Turn Over The Hem
You can take the pin line as your ultimate guide for the turning line of your hem. Pin the edge within the cores of the pant part. After that, you only have to press the brand-new hemline gently.
Step 8: Do A Double Check
Now, you have to try on the pants and make all the adjustments, only if it’s required.
Step 9: Complete The Hem
Finally, to close the hem, you have to cut down the extra material. Make sure to sew up the hem similar to how the manufacturers have done the actual sewing work.
How To Hand-stitch The Hem Of Your Garment?
When you have measured the hem of your garment, it’s time to stitch it up. But there are several types of stitching techniques, which you can use. Look below!
1. Fell Stitch
Fell stitch stands out as one of the most potent stitching techniques of all time. When you utilize a thin fabric, the stitch will be visible from the underside of the work.
When you pass through a portion of the material’s thickness, you can easily hide the stitch. This will only take place when you use a thick cloth.
For the linings, you can hide the stitches completely. You only have to switch between the hem and the lining.
2. Hand-rolled Hem
If you have used sheer or lightweight fabrics to create your garment, you must stitch the hems with the hand-rolled technique. But this technique will not work on embellished or thicker materials.
3. Catch Stitch
Catch stitch comes with a bit of elasticity, and the threads crisscrossing adds plenty of strength. Working with this particular stitching technique is pretty easy, and the crisscross design also adds a bit of structure.
What Are The Tools I Need For Measuring The Hem?
There are only two essential tools you will require for measuring the ham of the garment or the fabric. These tools are a yardstick and a ruler.
The length of the rulers might vary. But the rulers that carry 12 inches or 30cm to 18 inches or 45cm stand out as a good choice for measuring the hem.
You will find these rulers available at a stationary store or an arts and crafts shop. The yardstick, on the other hand, comes in metal or hardwood. You can measure the length of the hem from the floor with no hassle.
Can I Use A Blind Stitch For Stitching The Hem Of The Garment?
Yes, you can. Blind stitch has the power to hide the entire stitching work. In other words, this stitching technique is not that visible from the other side.
When you want a clean and neat look at the hem area of your garment, this stitching technique will be the best choice for you.