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How To Hem A Chiffon Dress

Chiffon dresses are smooth, lightweight, and slippery with their characteristics. Also, it has become troublesome to sew or stitch chiffon dresses. So, you may be thinking about the solution then. Well, you can hem a chiffon dress without sewing.

The easiest way to get the hemming of your chiffon fabric is without sewing. You can use a simple hemming tape to get done with your job effectively. It can be a temporary solution but can prove to be very efficient and beneficial for you.

In this blog, we will provide you with all the necessary steps and details to hem your chiffon dress without tape. You will get detailed information about how to hem chiffon with tape. You have to be cautious and patient to make a smooth seam on your fabric. 

You have to keep in mind that not every fabric is cotton. So, be calm and focused until you achieve desired results from the steps. So, let’s explore more.

How To Hem A Chiffon Dress Without Sewing?

Are you looking out for the easiest way to hem your chiffon dress? Here, being far ahead of sewing, the hem tape method proves to be the easiest solution if you have enough time.

You will enjoy learning this alternative way to hem chiffon dresses. It is always fun and exciting to explore your sewing skills other than using the machine and needles. If you follow the steps and guide properly, there will be no hassle.

Requirements

You can hem any chiffon fabric with tape and a few other pieces of equipment, such as:

1.  Hem Tapes

You can use any premium quality hem tape from stationery stores. In addition, ensure to use tape with solid and durable adhesive on both sides. This will get you the best results from hemming.

2.  Ball Pins

ball pins

The next piece of equipment is ball pins. Ensure that you have a stock of these pins. It will help you with the seam allowance and pinning the folds.

3.  Iron

If you’ve got a well-functioning iron in your place, it will work. Moreover, you have to use this iron on an even surface. For this purpose, you can use an iron board or some cardboard with a plain surface.

 4.  Scissors

scissors

Get yourself a pair of scissors for cutting and eliminating the edges of the chiffon dress. You can avoid a roster cutter as the fabric is too smooth and slippery.

 5.  Wet Tea-Towel

You will need a clean and simple wet towel. This will protect your chiffon fabric layers while ironing them. 

 6.  Fabric

fabric

Lastly, get your chiffon fabric for the hemming procedure. 

So, if you’ve got all the equipment ready, you’re all set to go. Now, you will have to follow these steps very carefully and precisely to get the optimum results. Try not to hurry and stay focused on your project.

Step 1. Thread Your Needle

In the beginning, you have to thread your needle. You have to use a lightweight thread in your needle that matches the colour of your chiffon dress.

Step 2. Decide Where To Place The Hem

Similar to other hemming efforts, you will have to first decide the place to hem in your fabric. You have to put the dress on and look for the length where you want it. Also, make sure that you add in enough hem allowance for easy working.

You must be sure and determined about the position where you want to hem your fabric. This is crucial for saving your energy from any redo of work. If required, use a measuring tape or ruler for this step. 

Step 3. Get And Cut Your Hemming Tape In The Right Size

get and cut your hemming tape in the right size

In this step, you have to get your humming or fusible tape to cut it in the right size or length. You can use the measurement made from the ruler to cut the tape for your vital parts.

If you have cut the tape for your desired length precisely, you will enjoy an optimal hemming experience without even sewing.

Step 4. Place The Tape With Hem Allowance

Furthermore, in this step, you will have to place the hemming tape. After cutting the tape precisely, place the trimmed tape in an accurate position over the fabric. In addition, you must ensure to look for the hem allowance while placing the tape.

Step 5. Wrap Or Fold The Hem Allowance To The Wrong Side

So, are you done placing the tape over the chiffon fabric? Now, you have to fold or wrap the hem allowance to the wrong side for a specific reason.

Chiffon is a lightweight and delicate fabric, prone to damage from the direct heat of the iron. So, the hem allowance is placed on the wrong side to protect the fabric.

Step 6. Place The Wet Tea Towel

If you’re done with the hem allowance, then it’s time to iron it. Place the wet tea towel above the chiffon fabric to protect it from any damage while ironing.

Step 7. Place Over Heated Iron Over Your Chiffon Fabric

If you have an electric iron, you will have to heat it to an appropriate temperature. Now, place it over the fabric. In addition, you have to apply firm pressure to iron the chiffon dress with delicacy.

If you do not iron the correct position over the tape, the tape will not get adhered to the chiffon fabric properly. So iron and heat the position over tape precisely and adequately.

Step 8. Keep The Fabric To Cool Down

So, are you done with the ironing? Now, sit back and relax until the fabric cools off. It is essential to keep the fabric cool down so that the tape blends perfectly with the chiffon fabric.

How to Sew a Rolled Hem on Chiffon?

Rolled hems are made using a unique sewing machine foot, on a Serger, or by hand. The outcome should be similar.

Preparation

In this section, we will focus on hemming using a sewing machine. But, here are a few pointers to have in mind when hemming lightweight fabric like chiffon, organza, and sheer.

Thread Type

Most people use 100wt poly threads. It is essential to allow it to blend well into the fabric. That prevents it from being conspicuous as it isn’t a decorative stitch.

More delicate threads stitch quickly through such thin fabrics. It minimizes the number of ruffles you will get. Besides more delicate ones being inconspicuous, they don’t weigh down the lighter fabric.

Needle Size

Since you are working with delicate thread, choose needles with smaller eyes. For example, size 60/8 and size 70/10 needles work well on lightweight fabrics.

Bobbins

If sewing using a machine, use bobbins prewound with the same thread or an 80wt poly thread.

Even if you use the latter, it will blend well with the thread at the top. While winding your bobbin, be careful and slow as thinner threads like to float away.

If you use a Serger (which we will read somewhere in this article), you don’t need the bobbin. Instead, you will want the thread on the spool for the lower loopers.

Cutting Objects

All your cutting and sewing objects should be sharp enough to avoid pulling the fabric threads. Remember, once this completes, the impact is visible on your garment.

Use kitchen paper towels or tissue to cut chiffon. It ensures you are more precise than ever.

Iron

While ironing chiffon, the temperature of your iron box should be at a low setting. That’s because you don’t want to burn your fabric with higher settings.

Narrow and rolled hemming are the most typical methods of hemming chiffon and other delicate fabric. But, you can choose what works for you.

Also, you can choose to do it by hand if the hemline is short. We will tell you how to do it by hand in some parts of this post. Other quick options are using a standard sewing machine or a Serger.

Step 1: Gather Your Materials

gather your materials

Collect all your materials. Of course, you need your sewing machine. Choose a thread size and type that is suitable for chiffon. The sewing machine needle size is also crucial.

Go for the cotton-wrapped polyester thread. For the needle, a size 80/12 or 70/10 will do. Account for your hem depth. It allows you to work with ease and have room for adjustments in case you mess.

Step 2: Press the Fabric

Chiffon can be challenging to press if you are new to using the fabric. But, do it slowly to ensure you balance the front and back of the dress. In addition, pressing the material assures that you have a defined section to work on at the moment.

Experienced tailors hardly do this as they know how to position the fabric and move it around as they sew.

Step 3: Press the Edges

Press down the edge of your fabric an eighth to a quarter way towards the wrong side. It will depend on your hemmer foot’s width. There are different width feet available. For rolled hems, you won’t use tailor’s pins.

Step 4: Start Hemming

start hemming

You should be ready to start hemming the dress by now. Set the sewing machine to create straight stitches.

Attach your hemmer foot and place your fabric under it. The wrong side, however, should be facing up.

Fold over your pressed edge before lowering your presser foot. The needle and your fold’s inner edge should be even. The guide too should be on foot.

You won’t see the raw edges as they hide in the second fold. Lower the presser foot and allow it to hold your fabric in place. Then, start lowering the needle into your dress. It should go into the fabric’s inner fold.

While the needle remains down on the dress, lift your presser foot. Tightly hold the fabric’s edges while inserting the fold upwards and over into the foot’s guide.

Start sewing as you hold the fabric tightly. That allows it to feed well into the foot. Go round the hem of the full dress, and you would complete it in a few minutes.

How to Hem Chiffon With a Serger?

You can choose to use narrow or rolled hems if you want perfect stitches. Generally, you start by lowering the stitch length before beginning with the smallest one. Set the upper loop tension to a low level and the lower one to a high level.

Begin serging from your right. Sergers are known for creating better finishes compared to any other sewing machine. Here is a procedural step on how to use a Serger to hem chiffon dresses.

Step 1: Set Your Serger

Take out the thread from the left needle if there was any. It doesn’t matter if you are using a rolled or narrow hem.

Lower your stitch width and length before starting. The size should be above the least setting on your Serger. You want your stitches to be neat, tight, and well packed. Increase your Serger’s lower looper tension before decreasing the upper loop tension.

Ensure you are working with the correct settings from the start. Lay your chiffon dress with the right side facing up. Start serging all-round the hem.

This procedure applies to both narrow and rolled hems. If you want a blind hem, hold your fabric in the hemline to the wrong side.

Step 2: Finish the Hemming Process

Fold it to the right and allow a space in the folding section. Set the tension at 0-2. The upper one must be 5 to 7 and the lower one 2 to 4. Confirm the settings before serging.

Insert your dress into the Serger. Ensure that the needle isn’t touching it and begin with the dress’s wrong side facing up. Once done, pull your edge and fold towards the opposite side.

How to Sew Chiffon Without Puckering?

Set the correct stitch length of your machine to suit the chiffon fabric. Yet, it will help if you press the pedal slowly. Or, rotate your hand wheel severally to start stitching.

Some patterns will need you to do them the usual way to prevent your fabric from stretching more. Ensure you are careful when dealing with single or thin layers of fabric.

Step 1: Pin the Fabric

Most thin fabrics experience puckering when the stitch length is longer. So, while sewing, try as much as possible to let your feed dogs pull on the fabric. First, fold over the material along its stitching line. Adjust it, then pin the fabric.

Sew with utmost care to avoid any ripping of stitches that can damage the fabric. Bind the edges of the hem. You can use rolled or narrow hems to finish the dress.

Step 2: Start Sewing Chiffon

Slowly remove the tissue paper that is along your stitch line. Be careful as you remove the smaller pieces using needle-nosed tweezers.

Extremely long or short stitches will lead to fabric pulling or puckering. Hold up the bobbin threads and top using your left hand and pull them towards the back of the sewing machine.

How to Sew a Narrow Hem on Your Chiffon?

This section will describe step-by-step methods for sewing the narrow hems on your chiffon dresses or fabric. Some people call it the baby hem, great for lighter materials like organza.

It is perfect for finishing the edges of pre-pleated fabrics because it doesn’t affect pleat folds.

Step 1: Take the Measurements

Mark the hem of your dress to a length you desire. It will help if you take measurements of the wearer to know the exact place to mark your hemline.

Start stitching an eighth of an inch right below the preferred length. For the length stitches, stick to the short one of about 1.5mm.

Fold over your dress’s raw edge towards the wrong side. It should be along the stitching line. Then, start stitching through the two layers. Ensure you are sewing closer to the fold. It should be as adjacent as possible to your fold.

Step 2: Cut the Excess Fabric

Trim all excess fabric. Do this closer enough to the stitching. It is when your attention is needed the most. Otherwise, you might cut the fold or stitches.

Use sharp scissors. Applique is the most suitable method for precision. At the same time, cutting supports your stitched fold.

To do this, lay it flat on the hand. But, first, before starting on this step, ensure you are ready to work on the next step after this.

Otherwise, you will ruin your fabric if you intend to stop from there and resume later.

Step 3: Sew a Narrow Hem

You will be cutting the fabric closer enough, and leaving it idling for long will lead to the material slipping out of the stitches. Also, ensure you don’t handle the dress frequently or don’t need to after cutting.

Fold the stitch line upwards again. Doing this encloses the raw edges in the middle fold. Start stitching on the previous stitches. Be careful enough not to go outside. Press the fabric, and the narrow hem should be complete.

It should be elegant and nicely weighted with the three stitched rows.

How to Hem Chiffon by Hand?

Chiffon, just like organza, can easily ravell and has plenty of body. The drape isn’t that much too but exceeds that of organza. It is woven and less transparent.

Step 1: Set the Fabric

As you cut lightweight fabric like cotton voile, organza, and chiffon, it is crucial to lay them square or straight. They should be very flat as they aren’t as stable as others like cotton or linen.

They are prone to shifting and will cause plenty of off-grain scenarios as you cut. So, if you are new to sewing these types of fabric, have this point in mind.

To help prevent the yardage of fabric from moving about and slipping, pin the selvages together. Others use pattern weights or rotary cutters and mats instead of using scissors and pins.

Step 2: Choose Narrow Rolled Hem

To finish your hems and other seams on chiffon or different lightweight fabric, ensure they are very narrow. Tidiness isn’t an exception. Compromising this will make your dress look ugly and unprofessionally done.

If you are a novice, you might have a few problems here and there as you start. But, with time, you will get used to this. Use the narrow rolled hem to work this out.

Step 3: Start Hemming By Hand

You may need a thread and needle that suits your material. The two have to be thin to prevent creating large holes in your fabric.

Pass the thread through your needle and secure the end. Next, sew a line of perfect basting stitches about a quarter inch from the area you’ll want your hem. On the same line of stitching, crisply fold and press your raw edges up.

Use basting stitches again to start sewing about an eighth inch from your folded edge. Then, with a pair of sharp cutting scissors, carefully trim the raw edges. Do this closer enough to the second stitching line.

On some occasions, there could be basting stitches showing. Remove them with care, then press again. By now, you would finish with your delicate hem.

How to Hem a Pleated Chiffon Dress?

By now, you should know the various ways of hemming a chiffon dress. But, fashion is changing, and nowadays, chiffon can also make pleated clothes.

The tricky part when hemming such clothes can be in dealing with the wrinkles. There are different techniques used to create remarkable results, and we will learn the simplest ones here.

Step 1: Cut the Allowance

Trim your allowance, i.e., the amount of material above your current hemline. Do this step if you want it shorter. For example, do this to a quarter an inch and make the overcast edge.

It is a single-fold edge which is the fold beginning from the outer side of the dress to the inside. Restitch your side seams and stop when you are six inches above your overcast edge.

This overcast edge should be the one on the newest folded hemline. Make a hem at the front of your dress and then on the backside.

Sew each into its rightful place separately. Doing this all at ago can interfere with your fabric.

Before working on the hems, ensure you match them in the seam area. Once done, trim all the leftover fabric and threads.

Once you have sewn all the sides into their places, make a hem. Trim the dress down to the seam allowance. It should be in the section where you want to make the hem, then fold it in the seam to square it with a crease.

Step 2: Use Running Stitches

Pin your hem into place. It should be a quarter an inch starting from the dress’s edge, then finish sewing your hem into its place.

Remember to clip your seam allowance and lift it slightly above your hemline. Then, fold the crease to a level at which you prefer it set.

Pin the pleat in place again about a quarter an inch from your dress’s edge.

Sew that into place with a running stitch. Seam lines can pose some difficulty when adding hems to pleated dresses. That’s because most seams will split open in the hemline. But, you can counter this.

To work around such minor issues that can be annoying, sew your pleats together. It should be around a quarter of an inch starting from the edges.

Step 3: Finish Hemming

Press the dress and overcast your seam edges to ensure they are covering your hem. One of the essential things when hemming a chiffon dress or cloth is to have the wearer’s measurements.

Or, let them be nearer to try the cloth before adding a hem to it. It is for a proper fitting and to ensure you get the right length. Also, check again to ensure the baste markings are very accurate before sewing them in.

How to Protect The Chiffon From Fraying Without Sewing?

If you want to avoid any kind of unravelling or fraying over your chiffon dress, you have to trim them. If you find any existing frays on your chiffon fabric, trim them with sharp scissors.

After trimming the existing frays, dip a paintbrush into acrylic paint matching your chiffon fabric colour. Now, apply this paint over the edge of the chiffon to seal them. Then, try to keep it for some time to dry.

Your chiffon fabric is now protected from any fraying without using any sewing method.

Final Thoughts!

That is all there is to work on in this article. If you are careful enough when hemming, you might not have a thread showing in the finished hem. The edges will be flat and sitting well because finer thread won’t add bulk to the fabric.

Most hems will have curved edges. Work on hems in the two-step method keeps it more consistent and even away from any problems.

Your dress and these simple methods are what you need for professional yet perfect hemming.

Jessica

Hello, I am Jessica Flores, and you are welcome to my website. I am a professional fashion designer and a seamstress. I always carried a passion for craftwork. My love for craft grew along with time. I have spent years researching and practicing in this field to gather colossal experience.

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